Re-amping for dummies – by sebas honing

To answer the many questions on the whole re-amping case I’ve decided to write this note on several ways to re-amp your guitar signal.

Basically there are two ways to get a dry signal recorded:

1) Split the signal coming from your guitar and send one of the splitted signals into your setup and the other into your interface/recording unit/mixing desk, etc….

2) Run your dry singal straight into your interface and use a modelling plug-in (Amplitube, Revalver, Eleven, Guitar Rig, Amp Farm) to record your guitars with. This way the sound recorded will remain dry, but you will still be able to hear and play with distortion.

Which way you choose doesn’t really matter, but I firmly believe that a guitarist’s playing is determined by the sound he’s using at that moment, so make sure you get a sound that’s as close as you can get to the actual sound you would like to achieve.

There are 2 ways to send the dry-signal to your favourite amp, FX, modeller or whatever:

1) If you’re using an interface or recorder with only two outputs you need to make sure that the only thing on one of the channels (either Left or Right) plays nothing except for your dry signal. You can do this by panning all the tracks to Right and only the dry signal to the Left. Then use the Left output to go into your amp, FX unit, etc.

2) If you’re using an interface with more than 2 outputs you can assign the dry signal to a 3rd or 4th ouput. Be aware that in this case you sometimes have to plough through the settings of your DAW or Interface to make sure it only plays back the dry-signal. Then use that output to feed the input of your desired amp or modeller.There are 3 ways of recording the re-amped signal:1) Run the signal through your amp and put some mics in front of the cab. Return the mic-signal(s) into your interface’s input(s).

2) Run the signal through your (pre)amp and connect the line-out or effectsloop-send to the input of your interface. Then you can use a plug-in modeller to simulate a cab and mic’s. Make sure that when you’re using a tube-amp you set it to only use the preamp section, or run it into a cab simultaniously to prevent the power tubes from dying.

3) Run the signal through your modeller or effects-unit and run it’s output (with or without speaker simulator) into de input of the interface. If it doesn’t have a speaker simulator build in yet you can again use a modeller plug-in to do it.

If all your favourite sound come out of plug-ins you don’t need all the hassle above. Just duplicate dry-signal track and equip every single track with a different setting or plug-in. Then use the fades or mute buttons to experiment with your favourite sounds.

Furthermore there is this thing called phasing: Every sound has different peaks and dips in the frequency spectrum and sometimes (especially when using mics) some frequency’s or the whole sound comes later than on a different sound. Some waves of the sound get cancelled out that way and make it sound very different than just one sound + the other. You can use this to your advantage or try to get rid off it.

When using microphones you can move one of them closer or further away than the other. When they are exactly alligned the signal is in phase. If it’s not and you’d like to get in in phase I usually use a delay plug-in (set to 100% wet) and adjust the delay time by tiny milliseconds. You’ll notice when doing this the sound changes dramatically when you’re only setting the delay one millisecond further! You could also try to zoom into the wavefile until you can literaly see the waves going up and down and compare it the the other tracks which should be moving slightly similair. If the waves go up and down at the same time they’re in phase. If one goes up and the other goes down they’re out of phase.There’s no right or wring with phasing, but generally people like to use or hear in phase.

Here’s what I did for Equisa’s upcoming debut album:

It started out with a borrowed Axe-FX standard. This machine sounds killer and I’ve made a patch on it which I used for all the rhythm tracks. The sound was really massive, big and thick, with plenty of gain and quite a tight response due to the overdrive pedal (Fat Rat) I’ve put in front of the amp (Energyball). This simulates an Proco Rat pedal in front of an ENGL Powerball.

Fractal Audio Axe-FX
Fractal Audio Axe-FX

It was the first time I ever used this piece of gear so I wasn’t fully sure yet wether it would fit in the mix decently when I got there. Therefore I plugged my guitar lead into a pedal first which has 1 input and 2 outputs. One of the outputs went to the Axe-FX and then into my interface to record the sound of that preset I made. The other output went straight into my interface to record a completely dry, non-distorted sound.

Now it’s been a couple of months since I recorded all rhythm tracks that way and whilst mixing I noticed that the guitars became fuzzy and muddy and not clear and airy enough. I decided to run the dry signal into my R&R Sound Solo, then rout the line-output into the Axe-FX and use that only for a 4×12 V30 cab with an SM58 simulator, then straight into my interface again. That way I could turn and twist knobs on the amp and Axe-FX to see what settings suited best in the mix of each and everything song, without having to play and record it all over again. Very time-efficient!

written by Sebas Honing . check his videos here.

other source: Example of re-amping at wikipedia

Technical notes, thoughts and considerations on the Fernandes Sustainer 101 Sustainer kit – by Sebas Honing

Fernandes Sustainer 101 Sustainer kit
Fernandes Sustainer 101 Sustainer kit

Recently I installed the 101 sustainer kit by Fernandes in my self-build guitar made from an oak coffeetable. I’ve made another of these guitars and I wanted this one to be as close to the original only with an added sustainer pickup and circuit. However, I had to compromise on some things:

The original features Ibanez V7 and V8 pickups with their RG 5-way switching allowing the following pickup combinations:
1. Bridge humbucker
2. Bridge and neck pickup splitted
3. Bridge and neck humbuckers
4. Neck pickup wired with parallel coils
5. Neck humbucker

I Mostly use setting 1, 2 and 5. To get those 3 pickup configurations I need both pickups to be splittable. The biggest problem is that everything runs through the PCB circuit board which makes it nearly impossible to trace the signal path and therefor come up with alternative switching. The instructions only feature schematics for a Les Paul type guitar with 2 humbuckers (no coil split), a guitar with 2 humbuckers and a single coil and the same with active pickups.
I’ve searched days looking for wiring diagrams using the above mentioned 2-humbucker 5-way switching used on Ibanez RG‘s. None seem to exist.

I’ve contacted both Ibanez and Fernandes about this but both left my questions unanswered.

Therefor I decided to use the LP switching, give up splitting the neck pickup and try to use a Push/Pull pot to split the V8 pickup. This pickup features 3 conductors instead of the usual 4 or 5. I figured that the red was Hot, the bare Ground and the white would than be both coils attached to each other making it able to split the coils. However it doesn’t really sound that single coily to me (which is the pickups fault probably) so I left that white conductor unwired.

After I hooked up the pickup I noticed it was out of phase with the neck pickup. Not my favorite sound. Another thing I noticed was that the Sustainer’s Normal mode worked great but the Harmonic mode was weak. When I swapped the Ground and Hot wires of the bridge pickup both pickups were in phase with each other, but the sustainer worked in the opposite direction, having a powerful Harmonic mode but a weak Normal mode.

Here I decided to go with best of both worlds and convert the unused push/pull switch to a phase switch on the bridge pickup. This switch now also functions as the mode switch for the sustainer giving both options with strong results.

Here’s something important:
Everything is connected to the circuit board with wiring clips. Each wire is fitted with a tiny metal clip which is housed (sometimes together with a few other wires) in a white clip that’s clipped onto it’s counterpart on the board. Although every wire delivered comes with these clips the bridge pickup of course doesn’t feature these metal clips. Searching for them is highly annoying and I had the luck I had an old unused bass-preamp laying around which featured the same wiring clips, so I could use those wires to solder to the pickup conductors.

Things to consider when installing a Fernandes Sustainer kit:
-You will most likely need to route a large cavity in your guitar to make room for the circuit board.
-For ease of installation, stick to one of the 3 schematics provided with the instructions.
-For ease of installation, use a Fernandes, Dimarzio, Seymour Duncan or EMG bridge pickup for these feature clear instructions in the manual how to wire them.
-Make sure you get some spare metal wiring clips of the right size.
-When one of the modes remains weaker than the other, consider using a phase switch on the bridge pickup.

self-build guitar made from an oak coffeetable by Sebas Honing

written by Sebas Honing . check his videos here.