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Category: Amplifiers

  • Re-amping for dummies – by sebas honing

    To answer the many questions on the whole re-amping case I’ve decided to write this note on several ways to re-amp your guitar signal.

    Basically there are two ways to get a dry signal recorded:

    1) Split the signal coming from your guitar and send one of the splitted signals into your setup and the other into your interface/recording unit/mixing desk, etc….

    2) Run your dry singal straight into your interface and use a modelling plug-in (Amplitube, Revalver, Eleven, Guitar Rig, Amp Farm) to record your guitars with. This way the sound recorded will remain dry, but you will still be able to hear and play with distortion.

    Which way you choose doesn’t really matter, but I firmly believe that a guitarist’s playing is determined by the sound he’s using at that moment, so make sure you get a sound that’s as close as you can get to the actual sound you would like to achieve.

    There are 2 ways to send the dry-signal to your favourite amp, FX, modeller or whatever:

    1) If you’re using an interface or recorder with only two outputs you need to make sure that the only thing on one of the channels (either Left or Right) plays nothing except for your dry signal. You can do this by panning all the tracks to Right and only the dry signal to the Left. Then use the Left output to go into your amp, FX unit, etc.

    2) If you’re using an interface with more than 2 outputs you can assign the dry signal to a 3rd or 4th ouput. Be aware that in this case you sometimes have to plough through the settings of your DAW or Interface to make sure it only plays back the dry-signal. Then use that output to feed the input of your desired amp or modeller.There are 3 ways of recording the re-amped signal:1) Run the signal through your amp and put some mics in front of the cab. Return the mic-signal(s) into your interface’s input(s).

    2) Run the signal through your (pre)amp and connect the line-out or effectsloop-send to the input of your interface. Then you can use a plug-in modeller to simulate a cab and mic’s. Make sure that when you’re using a tube-amp you set it to only use the preamp section, or run it into a cab simultaniously to prevent the power tubes from dying.

    3) Run the signal through your modeller or effects-unit and run it’s output (with or without speaker simulator) into de input of the interface. If it doesn’t have a speaker simulator build in yet you can again use a modeller plug-in to do it.

    If all your favourite sound come out of plug-ins you don’t need all the hassle above. Just duplicate dry-signal track and equip every single track with a different setting or plug-in. Then use the fades or mute buttons to experiment with your favourite sounds.

    Furthermore there is this thing called phasing: Every sound has different peaks and dips in the frequency spectrum and sometimes (especially when using mics) some frequency’s or the whole sound comes later than on a different sound. Some waves of the sound get cancelled out that way and make it sound very different than just one sound + the other. You can use this to your advantage or try to get rid off it.

    When using microphones you can move one of them closer or further away than the other. When they are exactly alligned the signal is in phase. If it’s not and you’d like to get in in phase I usually use a delay plug-in (set to 100% wet) and adjust the delay time by tiny milliseconds. You’ll notice when doing this the sound changes dramatically when you’re only setting the delay one millisecond further! You could also try to zoom into the wavefile until you can literaly see the waves going up and down and compare it the the other tracks which should be moving slightly similair. If the waves go up and down at the same time they’re in phase. If one goes up and the other goes down they’re out of phase.There’s no right or wring with phasing, but generally people like to use or hear in phase.

    Here’s what I did for Equisa’s upcoming debut album:

    It started out with a borrowed Axe-FX standard. This machine sounds killer and I’ve made a patch on it which I used for all the rhythm tracks. The sound was really massive, big and thick, with plenty of gain and quite a tight response due to the overdrive pedal (Fat Rat) I’ve put in front of the amp (Energyball). This simulates an Proco Rat pedal in front of an ENGL Powerball.

    Fractal Audio Axe-FX
    Fractal Audio Axe-FX

    It was the first time I ever used this piece of gear so I wasn’t fully sure yet wether it would fit in the mix decently when I got there. Therefore I plugged my guitar lead into a pedal first which has 1 input and 2 outputs. One of the outputs went to the Axe-FX and then into my interface to record the sound of that preset I made. The other output went straight into my interface to record a completely dry, non-distorted sound.

    Now it’s been a couple of months since I recorded all rhythm tracks that way and whilst mixing I noticed that the guitars became fuzzy and muddy and not clear and airy enough. I decided to run the dry signal into my R&R Sound Solo, then rout the line-output into the Axe-FX and use that only for a 4×12 V30 cab with an SM58 simulator, then straight into my interface again. That way I could turn and twist knobs on the amp and Axe-FX to see what settings suited best in the mix of each and everything song, without having to play and record it all over again. Very time-efficient!

    written by Sebas Honing . check his videos here.

    other source: Example of re-amping at wikipedia

  • Marshall MS-2 checksound on soundcloud.com

    For us guitarists, there are lot of ways in introduce our music to world. this time I’m using soundcloud instead of YouTube to share what really it sounds like. i made a playlist about this, not too deep in details since this mini pocket amp (?) is simple gear for our needs in practicing our guitar learning. but this mini amp somehow satisfies me inside my room (this marshall ms-2 rocks ! ). so here they are, some  sound samples:
    Marshall MS-2 clean set 1 – volume at 9 o’clock, tone at 12 o’clock , clean mode

    Marshall MS-2
     clean set 1

     clean set 2 – volume at 12 o’clock, tone at 12 o’clock , clean mode

    Marshall MS-2 clean set 2
     clean set 2

     clean set 3 – volume at 5 o’clock(full), tone at 12 o’clock , clean mode

    Marshall MS-2 clean set 3
     clean set 3

     Marshall MS-2 OD set 1 – volume at 9 o’clock, tone at 12 o’clock , OD mode

    Marshall MS-2 OD set 1
     OD set 1

     OD set 2 – volume at 12 o’clock, tone at 12 o’clock , OD mode

    Marshall MS-2 OD set 2
     OD set 2

     OD set 3 – volume at 5 o’clock(full), tone at 12 o’clock , OD mode

    Marshall MS-2 OD set 3
     OD set 3

    for this record purpose I’m using my fender telecaster spalted maple guitar and my Zoom Q3HD camcoder directly without any edits (and without amazing guitar licks, one thing i totally forgot about).

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    umm, actually i put the marshall upside down for this record purpose, so the right picture is right down below:

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    well, i guess anyone who read this hopefully get some thoughts about this mini amp. here i share you the checksound playlist  on soundcloud.com

    good day virtuosos!

  • Direct Input for (much!) better Output

    Have you ever consider using DI box for your live performances, or your recordings? what is EXACTLY a DI Box anyway? does it really a tool for better sound output? all these questions are being asked around here and there, but actually, for me, i can’t hear the differences,at least, not with passive DI box. okay, so what’s the point in this post anyway?well, i tried to read and summarized all sources i can get which brought me to some conclusions. yes… (one of stupid things I’ve done is writing something i don’t actually know, but here it is)DI box is important it regains the lost signal of your guitar sound. it converts high-impedance, line level, unbalanced output guitar signal to a low-impedance microphone level balanced input to mixers. the low impedance allows the signal to be sent over long cable runs with significantly less signal loss.

    …. the lower impedance (around 600 ohms is normal) allows an insignificant load to the input of a mixing console or preamp which is also designed to accept input from low impedance microphones. – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DI_unit

    something you might find on stages is, you don’t hear the honest sound from the stage output. it is different from your sound set while you want the output is exactly the same as you hear on stages. A direct input box will help you to get that. by lowering the risk of lost signal, you will get your sound much better.

    which one do i choose? passive or active DI box? that’s a good question. well, honestly, what i’ve done to get the answer is by searching on the internet and find stuff with “built especially for guitar: label.. hahaha, and i got a DI Box, not too cheap, The ULTRA-G GI100 active DI box made by Behringer.

    Behringer ULTRA-G GI100 active DI box
    Behringer ULTRA-G GI100 active DI box

    things i got from using this active DI box are great. the cabinet simulator button helps me so much in getting the warm tone at the output sound from the mixer. it’s really helpful for you who uses analog effects with hi gain distortion and overdrive. sometimes our analog effects are just too harsh for the PA speakers, the cabinet simulation button will handle that problem. you can see on the next picture here, the ‘virtual 4×12″ cab’ button, yes, that button helps me in any stage conditions.

    Behringer ULTRA-G GI100 active DI box
    Behringer ULTRA-G GI100 active DI box

    this DI Box has a dB cut feature. it cuts -20 dB plus more -20 dB , so you don’t have to worry about damaging your Head-cabinet Amp. you can see the connection examples provided by Behringer in PDF file. the pad button will cut your frequency as you can see on the next picture here:

    Behringer ULTRA-G GI100 active DI box
    Behringer ULTRA-G GI100 active DI box

    well, this DI box isn’t like the class A DI box, and i haven’t try other DI Box. if you need suggestion, of course i will say that i wanna have a Radial JDV™ Active Super Direct Box on my setup, hahaha.. see you next post.

    Radial JDV™ Active Super Direct Box
    Radial JDV™ Active Super Direct Box
  • Marshall MS-2, cute little hard rock served on your desk

    Marshall MS-2, cute little hard rock served on your desk

    This Marshall MS-2 sounds louder than you think. yes, it’s a mini-amps product by +Marshall Amplification and you can have much fun with this. I bought this new and it’s made by Marshall manufacture in Vietnam. Marshall Amplification is a British company, well-known as one of the best guitar amps builders. You may have the big ones, but for this Marshall MS2 Micro Amp, I’d say this is my good stuff.one thing i like about Marshall Amps is that they are being honest about the guitar tones. they will amplify anything that came out from any kind of guitar honestly. if your guitar has ugly sound (like my lovely first electric guitar), then Marshall amps will take that ugly tone into the loudest sound you’ve ever heard.  Actually it’s a real good thing, if you want to buy a new guitar, please consider to hear it through Marshall Amps. (hear check sound: marshall ms-2 here)

    here few pictures i made:

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    quite nice isn’t it? here i shared a video about Marshall MS 2 with some effects pedals. here it is:

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    well, what do you think about this Marshall MS2 Micro Amp?